Rivets vs Chicago Screws for Bags and Leather

Leather rivets next to Chicago screws

Rivets and Chicago binding screws both join leather, webbing, or layered bag parts through a hole. On 3DANsupplies, the Rivets, Snaps & Eyelets collection lists double-cap rivets, Chicago binding screw (screw-post) styles, and related screw-in studs and eyelets. The main choice is permanent set versus a fastener you can open again.

This guide compares double-cap and tubular-style rivets with Chicago binding screws, when each fits bag and leather work, how to read size labels, and which tools pair with each type.

Double-cap rivets set for leather

Double-cap and tubular rivets: permanent set

Double-cap rivets are two-piece fasteners: a post (male) and a cap (female). You set them with a rivet setter and anvil so the post mushrooms or locks into the cap. Once set, the join is meant to stay closed. Catalog titles often say Double Flat Rivet, Double Cap, or Dome Riveted, with sizes such as 5/16" (8 mm), 3/8" (10 mm), and 1/2" (12 mm).

Typical bag and strap uses include strap ends, handle tabs, layered leather patches, and decorative stud rows. Pyramid, cone, and dome rivet styles appear in the same collection when the visible head shape matters as much as the join.

Tubular or similar peened rivets follow the same idea: a permanent mechanical set. Treat any listing that requires a setter and does not unscrew as a permanent fastener unless the product page says otherwise.

Chicago binding screws: removable screw posts

Chicago screw male and female parts

Chicago binding screws (also called screw posts or binding screws) are two-piece screw-together fasteners. One half is a female post; the other is a male screw. You tighten them with a screwdriver or hex driver instead of peening. Titles in this catalog often say Chicago Binding Screw Rivets, Chicago Screw, or Screw Only, with head styles such as slotted or Phillips, and size pairs like 3/8" x 1/8" (9 mm x 3 mm) or 3/8" x 3/8" (10 mm x 10 mm).

Because they unscrew, they suit bookbinding-style stacks, sample bags, and hardware you may swap or repair later. Wheel-style and other decorative Chicago screw heads also appear as listed variants.

Do not assume every “screw rivet” in the catalog is a Chicago binding screw. Some listings are screw-in studs or screw-in purse feet that thread into material differently—read the title and photos.

When permanent rivets are preferred

Prefer double-cap or other set rivets when the join will flex often and should not loosen—high-flex straps, shoulder tabs, and production runs where you do not need to reopen the stack. They also fit when you want a flush or decorative cap look and already have setters for that size.

Permanent rivets suit mass or batch work where every strap gets the same set and no one will disassemble the bag later. If your pattern calls for rivets at strap ends or pocket corners, match the listed cap diameter and post length to the material stack on the product page.

When Chicago screws help

Chicago screws help when you need to remove or restack layers: samples, prototypes, adjustable stack thickness, or hardware you may swap (for example, changing a decorative head). They also help for bookbinding-style or multi-layer leather stacks where screw length must match the finished thickness without peening.

Use them when a client or pattern may call for later repair without destroying the hole. Confirm post length against your stack before ordering; a post that is too short will not engage, and one that is too long will leave a gap or bottom out incorrectly.

Sizing: post length vs stack; cap diameter vs look

Sizing on listings is usually cap or head size and post length (sometimes both in inches and millimeters). Compare post length to the total thickness of leather, webbing, and lining you will clamp. Cap diameter affects how large the fastener looks on the face of the bag—not how strong it is. This catalog does not publish load ratings on these parts; do not invent them. Use the size labels on the product page and test on scrap when the stack is thick or uneven.

Examples of how titles read: double-cap rivets at 5/16" (8 mm) or 1/2" (12 mm); Chicago screws at 3/8" x 1/8" or 3/8" x 3/8". Always match the unit your pattern uses.

Related catalog items (related, not the same)

Nearby listings are easy to confuse with rivets or Chicago screws:

  • Screw-in studs and screw-in rivet styles — thread or screw into place; not the same as a two-piece Chicago binding screw pair.
  • Screw-in eyelets / grommets — screw-mounted eye openings for straps or handles.
  • Screw-on D-ring or strap anchors and screw-in purse feet — attachment or bottom hardware, not general-purpose rivets.

Treat these as related fasteners in Rivets, Snaps & Eyelets. Choose by the install method named in the title, not by the word “rivet” alone.

Tools: setters for rivets; drivers for Chicago screws

Double-cap and peened rivets need a setter and anvil (or a matching setting kit) sized to the rivet. Punch a clean hole first, then set on a hard surface. Browse setters and related leather tools in Leathercraft Tools.

Chicago binding screws need a screwdriver or hex driver that matches the head (slotted, Phillips, or other as listed). No peening step. Keep the stack clamped while you tighten so layers do not shift.

For snaps, oblong grommets, and other closures that often sit next to rivets on a bag, see Closures, Locks & Zippers when you need snap fasteners rather than rivets.

Finish matching to snaps, eyelets, and bag feet

Match finish across nearby hardware when you can: nickel, antique brass or bronze, gold, gunmetal, and similar labels appear on rivets, Chicago screws, snaps, eyelets, and bag feet in the same collection. Exact tone can vary by lot and material (brass vs iron vs zinc alloy), so compare photos on the product pages you will buy together.

If the bag already has snaps or eyelets installed, pull one finish word from those titles and filter rivets or Chicago screws to the same family before you mix metals on a visible strap.

Browse path

Open Rivets, Snaps & Eyelets. Decide permanent double-cap (or similar) versus removable Chicago binding screw from the title. Check post length and cap size against your material stack. Add setters from Leathercraft Tools only if you are setting peened rivets and do not already own the right size.

Shop next

Ready to choose fasteners? Browse Rivets, Snaps & Eyelets for double-cap rivets, Chicago binding screws, screw-in studs, and eyelets. Pair set rivets with setters in Leathercraft Tools, and match nearby snaps or related closures in Closures, Locks & Zippers when the bag uses both.